How to… grade between sizes on a sewing pattern
The great thing about making your own closes is that you can make size you! No need to compromise with poor fit or force your body into someone else’s standard sizing.
But what if your measurements fall between sizes in the size chart or span several sizes?
I’ve always had a generous waist to hip difference so learning to grade between sizes has been a game changer for me! I’ll share how easy it is to tailor a pattern to fit your measurements too…
HOW TO GRADE BETWEEN TWO SIZES ON A PRINTED PATTERN
When you might need this:
Your measurements put you between two sizes on the pattern — for this example, we need to cut a size 4 at the bust but size 5 at the waist and hips.
What to do:
Cut the smaller size at the bust. Start by cutting out the pattern at your smaller measurement (e.g., size 4) through the bust and underbust dart area. Don't cut the hip/waist area yet.
Mark your waistline. The waistline sits approximately 15-20cm below the bust line. Measure yourself to check where your waist sits and then use a ruler to measure down from the bustline and draw a clear horizontal line across the pattern piece. Extend this line outward so you have a clear marker. On some patterns there may be a line or notch to mark the waist position already which you can use.
Grade out to your larger size. Starting from your size 4 cut line, gradually grade out to your larger size (e.g. size 5) below the waistline. Do this by drawing a soft S-curve mirroring the original line of the pattern rather than a straight line. Start with a fairly straight line down to about a thirds of the way, then gradually curve the line as you move down, creating a smooth transition.
Why the curve matters. Straight lines create sharp corners that don't follow the natural shape of the body and the silhouette of the pattern design. We all have soft curves, so maintain those curves in your pattern.
Cut and continue. Once you've made the grading alteration, cut out the rest of the pattern piece.
