How to… Understitch

Understitching is a row of stitching sewn close to the seam on the inside of the garment only which holds the linings or facings on the inside of a garment by fixing them to the seam allowances.

How to understitch

Smooth all the seam allowances away from the outer garment and lightly pull them toward the lining or facing. You will need to snip into curved seams to help them lie flat. You may want to press the seam carefully using the nose of an iron.

Next, stitch on the right side of the lining or facing fabric approx. 3mm from the seam. This will help to hold the lining on the inside of the garment.

Finally, with the outer fabric and lining fabric placed with wrong sides together, press the seam, rolling the lining towards the inside.

When stitching armholes, you will often find you can only stitch part way up to the shoulder seam if the straps are narrow. It is fine to just stitch as far up as you can and stop before you start distorting the fabric.

Ready to Party Dress

For a really neat finish, understitching helps keep lining where it should be on the inside for the garment.

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How to… Insert an invisible zip

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How to…Bind an open ended zip