Sizing and Fitting
Measure yourself
What measurements are crucial for this pattern and why…?
Key fitting points on this style are the shoulders and the bust, if these areas fit well, all other areas should fit well too.
The key measurements you will need to take to choose your pattern size are the high bust, full bust, waist and hips.
Use this Downloadable measuring guide and measurements chart to make a note of your measurements.
Compare your High Bust measurement and Full Bust measurement to make sure you have enough volume in the pattern for your bust…
Using your high bust measurement is key for getting a good fit on the bust, shoulders and neckline. Take your high bust measurement by pulling the tape measure around your back, up under your armpits and well above your bust over your breastbone, make sure it remains parallel to the floor all the way around. Make sure you lower your arms to expand your chest when reading this measurement.
Remember with this measurement you are looking to measure the BONES not and flesh so make sure you are taking the measurement high up at the front above the breasts.
Is there enough volume in the pattern for your bust?
This pattern and all MHW Patterns include 7.5cm of volume for the bust (making them a dressmaking C-cup).
If there is less or more than 7.5cm difference between the high bust and the full bust, then a bust adjustment may be required.
If you do need to make a bust adjustment, use your HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT to choose your pattern size.
If you do not need to adjust the bust, use your full bust measurement to choose your pattern size.
Find out more about bust adjustments on the next page.
Is the Apex in the correct position?
This often isn’t discussed in detail in commercial patterns but it is so important for a good fit.
The bust point or “apex” needs to be at the correct height and position and the dart needs to be pointing towards the apex.
So take the High Neck Point to apex measurement and the across bust (apex to apex) measurements and compare these to the pattern measurements. If the apex is in the wrong position either vertically or horizontally, you can move the dart. Find out how to adjust the bust apex and dart position on the next page.
Other measurements to take…
We will correct the shoulders if necessary when we come to fitting the toile so of now it is a good idea to take your across shoulder measurement at the front and back (enlist a helper for the back measurements if possible!)
Whilst you are taking your measurements for this pattern, it’s worth taking (or checking if it’s been a while) your range of measurements as you will be referring to them constantly for your future pattern making and alterations.
Note them in this Downloadable measuring guide and measurements chart .
Use your measurements to pick the correct size to make…
Size Chart
The measurements in this chart are body measurements - NOT the finished measurements of the garment.
To choose your size for this pattern, we recommend choosing size closest upwards to your measurements (for example if your waist is 69cm make a size 2), then reference the finished garment measurements and/or ease amounts to check how the finished garment will fit.
If your measurements span several sizes, you may need to cut different sizes at different body points, grading between them.
IMPORTANT NOTE FOR CHOOSING YOUR SIZE FOR THIS PATTERN:
Fitting the bust: If you do need to make a bust adjustment, use your HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT to choose your pattern size.
If you do not need to adjust the bust, use your full bust measurement to choose your pattern size.
Finished Garment Measurement and Ease…
Finished garment measurements are what the garment will measure around its full circumference once it has been constructed (with the assigned seam allowances). Ease is calculated as the difference between the finished garment measurements and the body measurements. It is the amount of extra space added into the pattern above your body measurements for comfort (wearing ease) and to create a specific silhouette (design ease).
How much ease is there in the Simple Top Block:
This top is semi-fitted at the bust and loose at the waist.
There is 8cm ease at the bust. This is on top of the volume for the bust already in the cup.
There is 23-26cm ease at the waist.
To check the ease is right for you, hold a tape measure around you at the finished garment measurement (which includes the ease) for the size you have selected to check how it will look and feel on your body. Squat, sit and move around to check how it feels as your body moves.